Archive for month: September, 2016

Distance: 56 mi / 90km

Climbing: 4,098 ft / 1249m

This was my longest day yet, and I had expected it to also be the flattest. Overall the route was pleasant with many dirt roads through the vineyards of Rioja connecting small villages. It seems that from Logroño, it is more possible to ride the next few regions of the Camino Francés without a mountain bike. There were only a few short sections where a tougher machine would have helped, and overall I was very happy with my bike/gear setup for it’s ability to handle just about anything the path can present.

Enjoying the morning light on the way past the reservoir out of Logroño.

Pilgrim crosses on the top of the hill past Logroño.

Nájera

Distance marker just past Nájera.

In Azofra, keeping the wine cool until tonight’s festival.

The heat wave unfortunately has continued, and it hit me the hardest on a not so steep, but very long and grueling climb up to Cirueña along the gravel road. At the top I was thankful for a small rest area and to find my two biking friends from Peru that I met two days earlier. Around this point I found a very tall sign welcoming me into yet another Spanish Region, Castilla y León. The states really fly by on a bike, even if the progress feels slow and steady at times!

The long, slow path up to Cirueña.

Announcing the start of Castilla y León with a strangely tall sign.

On the last section of the path to Belorado, a strong headwind picked up, and at some times I had to make an effort to keep my momentum on flat ground. I was impressed at the bike packing gear’s ability to slice through the headwind better than having racks and panniers. At times when the wind was on my side, it did feel like the frame bag might be catching a bit more than if that area would be open.

Thankfully without feeling as overheated as the day before, I arrived into Belorado earlier than any previous day, and still felt pretty good. I reserved a bed at the new El Salto albergue, just on the edge of town in a renovated 19th century hydroelectric plant. This beautiful space is the handiwork of two brothers from the region (Pepe & Fernando), who had opened it first as a bike shop three years ago, and as an albergue only last month. I was happy to meet two American peregrinos traveling together who were staying here, one on a bike and the other on foot, following a walking itinerary day by day. Together we cleaned up the bikes and I was thankful to have access to a shop stand to tune up my brakes and cables.

Pepe and I outside the El Salto albergue

In the many albergues that I’ve stayed along various Caminos in Spain, this will definitely go down as one of my favorites. I stayed up late into the night talking to Pepe about his vision for the place, adventure bikes, and ways to get each of our families outside on the trail. Pepe and Fernando were born in Belorado, but spent most of their lives in Madrid, and had recently moved back to the area to develop local tourism in the area and be closer to the place their family is from. They also have a vision to bring cyclists from the city of Burgos out into the countryside and explore the land on two wheels. The idea of a tough adventure bike travel really appealed to them, and they lamented that most of the interest in Spain is to spend an extra 1000 Euros to take 1kg (2.2 lbs.) off the bike, not to have a bike that can take you anywhere. I wouldn’t be surprised if Surly bikes will make an entrance in Spain because of the work of these two.

The building itself is a work of art, built off the grid and powered by solar energy. The area was so quiet that I slept right through the entire night without interruption, my first time since coming to Spain almost a week ago. The albergue is not just for cyclists on the Camino, but is open to all. Be sure not to miss it if you are passing through!

About 1/3 of the way to Santiago!

El Salto albergue, great secure space for overnight bike storage.

El Salto albergue- I had this room all to myself!

Outdoor bike shop/stand for guest use at El Salto albergue. Nice to see my bike looking so light and clean! Pepe recommend chain lube with wax to combat the dusty roads.

Churros in Belorado.

Belorado at night

Distance: 40.8 mi / 65km

Climbing: 2894 ft / 882m

The road out of Zubiri was full of walking pilgrims, and the Swiss cyclist and I stayed together for the first 5km in order to startle the walkers twice in succession. Even with a bell’s warning and saying “good morning” in whatever language I guess people to be by the brand of their backpacks, many are inevitably in a pilgrim daze that in unrattle-able. Overall the path was fun rolling single track, good for MTB 2.0″+ tires, but would have been challenging on a road bike. There’s always a road option for those preferring that. About halfway to Pamplona, there’s a great bike path following the river that offers a respite from the crowded narrow trail, and a quicker way into the city.

River bike path into Pamplona

Pamplona main square

This guy biked from Germany. Wasn’t interested in chatting, just sitting down for a cold beer.

Pamplona was a whirlwind of logistics tasks, including shipping my bike backpack to Santiago (25 euros, they hold it for free for 2 weeks, then 1 euro/day afterwards), getting a bike shop to double check my headset (star nut had slipped), and visiting the location of 20 accommodations on our guidebook maps. I’m super grateful to István and Anita from Caminoteca in Pamplona for their help and advice during that busy time. If you need any gear or information, definitely check them out. They’re just 100m downhill from the Cathedral.

Caminoteca gear store in Pamplona

After running out of energy and focus, I Facetimed Anna and Silas from the park at Cuidadela and managed to keep going. Gotta love free T-Mobile data.

It was 4pm until I left, and I was drained on energy to think about climbing the Alto de Perdón and making it to Puente la Reina. The fact that it was over 90F/32C and the sun was fierce didn’t help either. The mechanics at the bike shop say they warn cyclists from taking the dirt rail over Alto de Perdón, mostly because of the rocky sections especially on the descent. Not that it wasn’t possible, they said, more likely just not enjoyable (there is a good road option available).

Top (front) and bottom (left side) of the steepest part of the path up to Alto de Perdon.

Finding a sole tree to escape the sun for a rest.

Overall the climb was challenging but not impossible or something I would advise someone to skip if they had they were up for the challenge and had a capable bike. Most of it was a gradual uphill on dirt double track, with one really steep section after the small village half way up. I passed many walkers resting under the shade of a few isolated trees along the way, and decided it would be wise to do the same myself.

The Peruvians finishing the climb.

Peru!

Couldn’t pass without this shot…Around the top of the pass, I encountered two young Peruvians also doing the climb, and they were tired but enthusiastic when we all arrived there. Almost suddenly at the top, the clouds blocked the sun and the wind picked up and we all felt immediately refreshed. I finally ate the avocado I had carried since France and regained my focus for the way down.

Beginning of the descent from Alto de Perdon.

More steps farther down. It leveled out soon after this.

The Spanish cycling guides all warn about the descent from Alto de Perdón, mostly for the rocky initial steep section which has a few sets of stairs. Thankfully next to those stairs there is a way for bikes to pass, but it is rock and steep. I’d only advise this with mountain bike, and suspension would have helped, but wasn’t critical. You could also walk this short steep section in about 10-30 minutes, depending on your footing. Be careful in rain.

Soon afterwards, the path leveled out a bit, but still offered a gentle smoother descent through rolling paths which were thankfully now (because I was so late) empty of hikers. Overall I am super glad that I went over the Alto de Perdón; it was definitely worth the challenge and the descent was manageable for me, even one of the highlights of the day.

Fiesta in Obanos

On the way down, I passed through the town of Obanos which was having a very local fiesta that appeared to be a bullfight given the ambulance parked nearby and fencing in the center of town. When I asked the locals for details, they seemed to not to want to talk about it. The center of town had a big banner explaining how the festival was part of the town’s cultural heritage.

I managed to get to Puente la Reina at 6:30pm, thankful I had reserved a space in Albergue Jakue, which is part of the bike albergue network and has a dedicated locked bike shed. It’s a great place to stay with only 4 beds and a private bath in each room, plus the option of a 13 euro buffet at the adjoining hotel. Tomorrow I’m looking to increase my distance as the hills level out and hopefully make it to Logroño. I’m sure I’ll sleep well tonight!