Day 2: Through Pamplona & the Alto de Perdon (Zubiri to Puente de Reina)
Distance: 40.8 mi / 65km
Climbing: 2894 ft / 882m
The road out of Zubiri was full of walking pilgrims, and the Swiss cyclist and I stayed together for the first 5km in order to startle the walkers twice in succession. Even with a bell’s warning and saying “good morning” in whatever language I guess people to be by the brand of their backpacks, many are inevitably in a pilgrim daze that in unrattle-able. Overall the path was fun rolling single track, good for MTB 2.0″+ tires, but would have been challenging on a road bike. There’s always a road option for those preferring that. About halfway to Pamplona, there’s a great bike path following the river that offers a respite from the crowded narrow trail, and a quicker way into the city.
River bike path into Pamplona
Pamplona main square
This guy biked from Germany. Wasn’t interested in chatting, just sitting down for a cold beer.
Pamplona was a whirlwind of logistics tasks, including shipping my bike backpack to Santiago (25 euros, they hold it for free for 2 weeks, then 1 euro/day afterwards), getting a bike shop to double check my headset (star nut had slipped), and visiting the location of 20 accommodations on our guidebook maps. I’m super grateful to István and Anita from Caminoteca in Pamplona for their help and advice during that busy time. If you need any gear or information, definitely check them out. They’re just 100m downhill from the Cathedral.
Caminoteca gear store in Pamplona
After running out of energy and focus, I Facetimed Anna and Silas from the park at Cuidadela and managed to keep going. Gotta love free T-Mobile data.
It was 4pm until I left, and I was drained on energy to think about climbing the Alto de Perdón and making it to Puente la Reina. The fact that it was over 90F/32C and the sun was fierce didn’t help either. The mechanics at the bike shop say they warn cyclists from taking the dirt rail over Alto de Perdón, mostly because of the rocky sections especially on the descent. Not that it wasn’t possible, they said, more likely just not enjoyable (there is a good road option available).
Top (front) and bottom (left side) of the steepest part of the path up to Alto de Perdon.
Finding a sole tree to escape the sun for a rest.
Overall the climb was challenging but not impossible or something I would advise someone to skip if they had they were up for the challenge and had a capable bike. Most of it was a gradual uphill on dirt double track, with one really steep section after the small village half way up. I passed many walkers resting under the shade of a few isolated trees along the way, and decided it would be wise to do the same myself.
The Peruvians finishing the climb.
Peru!
Couldn’t pass without this shot…Around the top of the pass, I encountered two young Peruvians also doing the climb, and they were tired but enthusiastic when we all arrived there. Almost suddenly at the top, the clouds blocked the sun and the wind picked up and we all felt immediately refreshed. I finally ate the avocado I had carried since France and regained my focus for the way down.
Beginning of the descent from Alto de Perdon.
More steps farther down. It leveled out soon after this.
The Spanish cycling guides all warn about the descent from Alto de Perdón, mostly for the rocky initial steep section which has a few sets of stairs. Thankfully next to those stairs there is a way for bikes to pass, but it is rock and steep. I’d only advise this with mountain bike, and suspension would have helped, but wasn’t critical. You could also walk this short steep section in about 10-30 minutes, depending on your footing. Be careful in rain.
Soon afterwards, the path leveled out a bit, but still offered a gentle smoother descent through rolling paths which were thankfully now (because I was so late) empty of hikers. Overall I am super glad that I went over the Alto de Perdón; it was definitely worth the challenge and the descent was manageable for me, even one of the highlights of the day.
Fiesta in Obanos
On the way down, I passed through the town of Obanos which was having a very local fiesta that appeared to be a bullfight given the ambulance parked nearby and fencing in the center of town. When I asked the locals for details, they seemed to not to want to talk about it. The center of town had a big banner explaining how the festival was part of the town’s cultural heritage.
I managed to get to Puente la Reina at 6:30pm, thankful I had reserved a space in Albergue Jakue, which is part of the bike albergue network and has a dedicated locked bike shed. It’s a great place to stay with only 4 beds and a private bath in each room, plus the option of a 13 euro buffet at the adjoining hotel. Tomorrow I’m looking to increase my distance as the hills level out and hopefully make it to Logroño. I’m sure I’ll sleep well tonight!
